Skin Care Ingredient Explanations

Some customers have raised concerns that the active ingredients listed on the tubes have chemical sounding names.  This is because even natural products are given a specific name under the INCI code. INCI is short for "International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients". 

International law requires that the ingredients are stated on the packaging using the name approved by INCI.  For example water is called 'Aqua' and so on. The purpose of this document is to enable you to determine exactly what is in your Xtend-Life skin care products and put your mind at ease knowing that the ingredients are indeed derived from natural sources and safe as we claim, even though some of them may have odd sounding chemical names.

The unfortunate aspect of the INCI nomenclaure is that it makes no differentiation between various ingredients that can be quite different in action.  As an example that is easy to follow there are many types of Vitamin E. Some are natural, some are synthetic, some are effective, some are not... but under INCI they ALL have the same name. Every ingredient has strong clinical evidence supporting its effacacy and safety.

As a futher example, even though the Extrapone Nutgrass Root which we use in our whitening day cream is a very special patented ingredient it still has the same INCI name for ordinary nutgrass which is quite a different product.

It is also important to realize that the explanations in some cases are somewhat oversimplified.  As an example, Extrapone Nutgrass Root was developed by a German cosmetic company using very special patented processes that are unique to them.  Likewise this is also the case with many other ingredients which have been developed by large respected European Companies such as Croda and others.

General Notes:

*Aqua - Water used in cosmetic products is used as a natural spreading component, as it will help to distribute the other ingredients evenly over the skin. The water used in skin care products however is not the normal household water. It is highly purified by reverse osmosis and is further subjected to heat sterilization, to ensure that the quality conforms and surpasses the most stringent international microbiological standards. This ensures that no impurities are present and that the water is de-ionized so as not to interfere with other ingredients used in these cosmetic products

*Alcohol - There are two types of alcohol used in skincare products. Petroleum based and natural plant based. Xtend-Life does not use any petroleum derived products.  The type of alcohols that are found as part of an ingredient are natural, non drying to the skin and should not be confused with alcohols used by some other manufacturers which may have a negative effect on the skin.

The list below covers all of the ingredients that we are using in the Xtend-Life skin care range.

Brand / Common Name	Scientific (INCI) Name	Natural Origin and Additional Info
Pemulen TR2	Acrylates/C10-30  Alkyl Acrylates  Crosspolymer	Premulen is made up of crosslinked acrylate polymers and copolymers. It is a derivitive aqueous solution of hydrophilic polymers creating a group of natural protective film-forming elements extracted from marine sources. These marine esters have two carbon atoms double-bonded, and crosslinked with sucrose (natural sugar) and pentaerythritol (an organic compound with natural antioxidants).
Oxi-Fend Kiwifuit Extract	Actinidia chinensis (kiwi) fruit skin extract	Oxi-fend® Kiwifruit Extract is a potent antioxidant and is scientifically proven to defend cells from oxidative stress; the extract helps restore the natural skin pH of 5.5 during cleansing.
Allantoin	Allantoin	Allantoin is an organic heterocyclic (containing rings formed by carbon and other atoms) compound extracted from herbs comfrey and bearberry. It is the most active ingredient in comfrey root and is helpful to protect skin against potential sensitivity reactions towards any ingredients. It also helps to stimulate tissue growth.
Covitol F1300	Alpha-Tocopherol	Alpha-tocopherol is the most active component of vitamin E. It is an organic powerful antioxidant. It is fat soluble and as well as an antioxidant it is also used in the metabolism of cells, promoting cell renewal. It also helps to prevent the breakdown of tissues and cells, and helps to protect and preserve Vitamin-A, which is essential in maintenance of epithelial tissues.
Neodol 24-NA/30	Ammonium lauryl sulfate	Ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS) is an anionic surfactant and foaming agent.  By lowering the surface tension of aqueous solutions, it helps enhance the spread of liquid over surfaces.
Extrapolate Nutgrass Root	Aqua/Glycerin/Cyperus  Rotundus Root Extract	The nutgrass plant (cyperus rotundus) originates from India. Its medicinal roots are in Ayurvedic and Chinese herbal use, due to its high nutritional value. Nutgrass contains natural oils, plus b-pinene, cyperene, a-cyperone b-cyperone and a-cyperol as its main ingredients. It also contains natural alkaloids, flavonoids and triterpenes. Water (see *Aqua) and glycerin enhance its properties.
Eyeliss TM	Aqua/Glycerin/ Hesperidine  Methyl Chacon/ Steareth-20/Dipeptide-2/Palmitoyl  Tetrapeptide-3	(See Aqua* and Glycerin) - Hesperidin methyl chalcone is a citrus bioflavonoid (also known as vitamin P). It promotes capillary health. Steareth-20 is a polyethoxylated (formed into a polymer) natural oil derived from palm oil. Dipeptide-2 is a peptide of amino acids Valine and Tryptophan; and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3 is a peptide combined with palmitic acid (vegetable source).
Haloxyl TM	Aqua/Glycerin/Steareth-20/Hydroxysuccinimide/ Chrysin/Palmitoyl Oligopeptide/Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7	Developed by Sederma.  (see Aqua* and Glycerin). Steareth-20 is a polyethoxylated (formed into a polymer) natural oil derived from palm oil. Chrysin is a natural flavone from blue passion flower (Passiflora caerulea). Palmitoyl oligopeptide and tetrapeptide-7 are natural lipoprotein peptides to stimulate collagen and elastin production.
Rigin TM	Aqua/Glycerin/ Steareth-20/ Palmitoyl  Tetrapeptide-3	Rigin™ is a formula of peptides. Rigin was discovered through research to learn how to suppress the body’s production of interleukins, particularly IL6, that trigger the body’s acute inflammatory response. Ingredients: (See Aqua* and Glycerin). Steareth-20, a polyethoxylated natural oil derived from palm oil. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3 is a peptide combined with palmitic acid (vegetable source).
Homeo Age	Ascophyllum nodosum Extract/Sorbitol/Aqua	Homeo-Age is a special formulation made from Ascophyllum nodosum, a pure brown alga, packed with vitamins and minerals, also known as Norwegian or Knotted Kelp, found in Europe, Greenland and North America. It is the most researched seaweed for medicinal and cosmetic uses. Sorbitol is a natural sugar obtained by the reduction of glucose. (see Aqua*).
Beeswax	Beeswax	Beeswax is obtained from honeycomb. It has been put through a thorough purification process, freed of impurities by specific melting and centrifugation, to ensure its purity and quality for skincare enhancement.
Shea Butter	Butyrospermum  Parkii	Butyrospermum parkii, Shea or Shea nut is a tree indigenous to Africa. The shea fruit consists of a thin, tart, nutritious pulp that surrounds a relatively large, oil-rich seed from which is extracted shea butter.  The outer pulp is removed, the shea nut shelled, and the seed is then pressed to extract the oils to form shea butter.
Crodamol GTCC	Caprylic/Capric  Triglyceride	An emollient derived from coconut oil and palm oil. A skin conditioning agent from the mixed triester of glycerol, caprylic and capric acid. Various vegetable oils and plant sources of Caprylic Triglyceride are used.
Bentone Gel GTCC V	Caprylic/Capric  Triglyceride/ Disteardimonium  Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate	Bentone is made from naturally derived pure hectorites (soft  clay minerals of sodium, lithium, magnesium, silicon). A caprylic / capric triglyceride mix are natural lipids composed of glycerin, caprylic & capric acids derived from coconut & palm kernel oils. Disteardimonium Hectorite is a vegetable-derived antisettling nutrient. Propylene carbonate is an organic ester to aid caprylic/capric triglycerides.
Ultrez 10	Carbomer	Carbomer is made from the organic polymers and natural organic long chaim molecule acids of vegetable cellulose, which is a carbohydrate that comprises much of a plant's cells.
Volpo CS20	Ceteareth-20	Ceteareth-20 is a glycol ether derived from a blend of natural cetyl and stearyl alcohol's (from coconut oil), and Cetearyl Alcohol, emulsified and stabilized and produced from the reduction of plant oils and natural waxes.
Olivem 800	Ceteareth-6 Olivate	Olivem 800 is a natural source non-ionic emulsifying ingredient developed from ceteareth-6 olivate, and natural long carbon atom chains from pure refined olive oil. It is created using olive oil in an esterification process, and used to provide oil-free formulations working from a natural lipid source.
Lanette 16 / O	Cetearyl Alcohol	Lanette is an emulsifying wax made by combining natural vegetable and plant sourced alcohols and coconut oil. It is produced from the reduction of these plant oils and natural waxes. Cetearyl Alcohol is emulsified and stabilized and produced from the reduction of plant oils and natural waxes. It is used for viscosity regulation.
Crodamol CAP	Cetearyl  Ethylhexanoate/ Isopropyl Myristate	Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate is the ester of cetearyl alcohol (from the reduction of plant oils and natural waxes). Isopropyl Myristate is derived from vegetable and coconut oil. It is an ester of isopropyl alcohol (a natural ethyl alcohol fermented from plant sugars), and myristic acid (from nutmeg (Myristica fragrans), which is 75% trimyristin, a natural triglyceride, and from palm oil sources.
Crodalan LA	Cetyl Acetate/Stearyl Acetate/Oleyl Acetate/Acetylated Lanolin/Alcohol	Crodalan LA is a lipophilic emollient. Cetyl Acetate is a mixture of cetyl alcohol (coconut oil), and acetic acid (apples, grapes, oranges, peaches, pineapples, strawberries, and plants). Stearyl Acetate is a natural EFA from vegetable source. Oleyl Acetate comes from fish oil. Acetylated Lanolin is lanolin-derived, from sheep’s wool. It is completely non-allergenic and doesn't clog pores.
Synathecol LDS >90%	Cocamide DEA	Synathecol LDS >90% : is derived from the fatty acids of coconut oil.and is a foaming agent and foam stabilizer. It is both water and oil soluble which enables both water and oil to be evenly dispersed in the solution to provide good cleansing properties.
Dow Corning 246 Fluid	Cyclomethicone	This is Silicone, but simply with a drier finish than the dimethicone version. Silicone comprises of a large group of organic compounds alternating silicon and oxygen atoms linked to organic radicals. It is natural, and naturally non-comedogenic, so it doesn't clog pores. It is derived from Silica which is a naturally occurring component of sand whose silicone polymer occurs abundantly in nature.
Cetiol CC	Dicaprylyl Carbonate	Cetiol CC is a natural vegetable sourced emollient, which helps to soften the skin. Dicaprylyl carbonate in particular is one of 3 main solids derived from plant oils that specifically act as a good emollient and does not leave an oily film on the skin.
Dow Corning Fluid	Dimethicone	Silicone comprises of a large group of organic compounds alternating silicon and oxygen atoms linked to organic radicals. It is natural, and naturally comedogenic, so it doesn't clog pores. It is derived from Silica which is a naturally occurring component of sand whose silicone polymer occurs abundantly in nature.
D-Panthenol	D-Panthenol	Panthenol (pantothenic acid) is vitamin B5. It is a pro-vitamin. Panthenol is a humectant, emollient and moisturizer. It helps repair skin tissue and protects the skin naturally against sunburn, providing relief for existing sunburn, and enhances the natural tanning process.
EDTA	EDTA	Acronym for ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, an amino acid with binding properties. EDTA is a molecule used to remove heavy metals and toxins from the human body. A synergist in aiding preservative action and assisting anti-oxidants to improve product stability through chelating and sequestering metal ions.
Crodamol CP	Ethylhexyl Palmitate	A nourishing plant based emollient, Ethylhexulpalmitate is derived from a fraction of palm oil lipid and is an ultra mild skin smoothing ester. It has no irritant or allergen properties. Ethylhexyl palmitate is the ester of 2-ethylhexanol (from plants, and a variety of fruits) and and palmitic acid (one of the most common components of the oil from palm trees (palm oil and palm kernel oil)).
Honey Lips	Fragrance	Honey lips: This is a blend of 100% natural, essential oils to support the fragrance of the manuka honey.
Glycerin	Glycerin	Glycerin is a non-toxic and non-irritating plant-based humectant. It comes from natural plant oil and is not petroleum-based. Glycerin shores up the skin’s natural protection by filling in the area known as the intercellular matrix and by attracting the right amount of water to maintain the skin’s homeostasis.
Phytessence Wakame	Glycerin/Aqua/ Undaria Pinnatifida  Extract	See glycerin (above). See Aqua*. Phytessence Wakame is an extract from a Japanese sea kelp and belongs to the Phaeophyceae Laminariales plant family. This brown algae is native to the sea of Japan. It contains polysaccharides, proteins, oligoelements, and vitamins. It has immune-stimulating, anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic properties.
Hispagel 200	Glycerin/Glyceryl  Polyacrylate	Hispagel® 200 is a hydrated polymeric clathrate (a lattice of water moledules) containing vegetable-derived glycol-free glycerin (see above) and glyceryl polyacrylate that are readily soluble in water, forming permeable films on the skin with excellent moisture retention and lubricating properties. Hispagel 200 is a lipoprotein derivative based on natural triglycerides.
Cithriol GMS 400/Cutina MD	Glyceryl Stearate	Glyceryl Stearate is a plant oil and glycerin mix, with stearic acid (a natural essential fatty acid, similar to omega 3 oils, from a vegetable source). This particular one comes from palm kernel source.
Emulgade SE-PF	Glyceryl Stearate/ Ceteareth-20/ Ceteareth-12/ Cetearyl Alcohol/ Cetyl Palmitate	Emulgade SE-PF contains cetyl and stearyl elements. Glyceryl Stearate is palm kernel oil and glycerin mixed with natural omega 3 oils of vegetable origin. Cetearyl Alcohol is produced from plant oils and natural waxes. Ceteareth-20 and -12 are derived from coconut oil. Cetyl Pamitate (Cis-9-cetylmyristoleate) is an esterified Cetylated Fatty Acid (CFA) from vegetable source.
Cithriol GMS A/S	Glyceryl Stearate/ PEG-100 Stearate	Glyceryl Stearate is of vegetable origin. Vegetable oil and glycerin mixed with stearic acid (a natural essential fatty acid, similar to omega 3 oils, also from a vegetable source). This particular one comes from palm kernel source. PEG-100 Stearate is derived from palm oil or coconut oil.
Witch Hazel Extract	Hamamelis Virginiana	Witch-hazel (Hamamelis) is a genus of flowering herbs in the family Hamamelidaceae, with two species in North America (H. virginiana and H. vernalis), and one each in Japan (H. japonica) and China (H. mollis). The bark and leaves are astringent; and the extract, also referred to as witch hazel, is a natural anti-oxidant and astringent, as well as bruising.
Cetiol PGL	Hexyldecanol/ Hexyldecyl Laurate	Cetiol PLG is one of 3 main natural vegetable emollients which help to soften the skin, Hexy-, are parts of an omega 3 complex, also containing phospholipids and sphingolipids. They are aliphatic - compounds composed of carbon and hydrogen molecules from plant and vegetable oils, but which do not contain aromatics.
Hydroxyethyl cellulose	Hydroxyethyl cellulose	Cellulose is a naturally-derived polymer from plant fibre. It is made of repeat units of the monomer glucose, a polysaccharide. Hydroxyethylcellulose is a derivitive of cellulose. It differs in that its formation prevents the polymer from crystallizing, and hence it becomes soluble in water and helpful in cosmetic products as a thickener.
Kaolin	Kaolin	Kaolin (green clay) is an extract from a special New Zealand clay that absorbs oil and gently pulls out grime from your skin. It helps to rebalance oiliness and absorb impurities. It contains beneficial minerals and trace elements that help leave the skin feeling hydrated and refreshed.
Xtend TK	Keratin/Hydrolysed  Keratin	Xtend TK is a combination of natural bioactive keratin and a nutritional hydrolysed keratin (a unique filament protein important in skin, hair and nail health), produced from natural New Zealand keratin fibre (sourced from sheep's wool). Xtend TK is special in that it remains bioactive (most keratin ingredients lose bioactivity during processing), ensuring it remains in its naturally stable form.
Nano-Lipobelle H-EQ10	Lecithin/ Tocopheryl Acetate/ Ubiquinone/ Alcohol/ Aqua	CoQ10 is a natural nutrient and powerful antioxidant. Nano-Lipobelle H-EQ10 is special because it has a 'nano-emulsion' delivery form that penetrates far down into the skin, through seven dermal layers. Lecithin is a phosphoglycerides from plant source. Tocopheryl Acetate is the most stable form of Vitamin E. Ubiquinone is a potent coq10 antioxidant. (see alcohol*). (see aqua*).
Macadamia Oil	Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil	Macadamia nut oil contains a high amount of palmitoleic acid, making it an effective anti-oxidant. Palmitoleic acid is an Omega-7 in natural glycerides. The Macadamia oil has a naturally high concentration of around 40%. It is suitable for all skin types but particularly good for dry or mature skin, protecting it like natural sebum.  It penetrates and hydrates the skin quickly.
Active Manuka Honey	Manuka Honey	Manuka honey comes from nectar gathered from the Manuka bush, indigenous only to NZ. It is thoroughly cleaned and processed through decontamination to ensure purity and quality. This pure Manuka honey has an antimicrobial / antibacterial property called Unique Manuka Factor (UMF). Honey that is verified to have a level of 10 UMF or more is given a rating and is referred to as 'Active'.
Manuka Honey	MEL	Manuka Honey is also known as a natural moisturizer and has antioxidant properties. It is rich in vitamins, minerals and natural proteins that help feed and nourish the skin. Manuka honey is also an effective antibacterial agent which can eliminate infectious bacteria on the surface of the skin that cause acne. Honey itself has the ability to produce hydrogen peroxide, which can destroy bacteria.
Crodamol MM	Myristyl Myristate	Crodamol MM is a non-greasy emollient to improve product texture and stability. It is a 100% natural vegetable derived ester (a compound formed by the reaction of natural alcohols and organic acids) that is used as a co-emulsifier to help create a silky, rich feel and a dry after-feel once absorbed. It is an ester of myristic acid (a natural lipid) and myristyl alcohol (a natural omega emollient).
Crodamazon Babassu	Orbignya Oleifera	Orbignya oleifera (Babassu) is a solitary stemmed palm that originates from Brazil and is known as the "tree of life"! It is high in Lauric acid (a natural nutrient having potent antimicrobial properties). Babassu nut oil is a clear, stable fixed oil, cold pressed from the kernel of the fruit. It penetrates the skin very quickly and  has been used for centuries to soothe the skin.
Crodamazon Maracuja	Passiflora Edulis/ Passiflora Incarnata	Crodamazon Maracuja is a emollient oil harvested from the seeds of the fruit of two types of Passionflower, rich in Vitamins C, A, and B, plus calcium, phosphorus, and iron. Importantly they contain Linoleic and linolenic acids, essential for the barrier function of the skin and present in epidermal lipids as triglycerides. Their absence can cause a variety of skin disorders and aging.
Cegesoft PF0	Passiflora Incarnata	Cegasoft PFO is a natural passionflower extraction used as an additional emollient, to help to soften the skin.
Cetiol HE	PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate	Cetiol HE: is a hydrophilic oil. This ingredient is preferably suited as a lipid layer enhancer in surfactant cleansing preparations and as a solubility promoter for essential oils and active agents.
Avocado Oil	Persea Gratissima Oil	Avocado Oil is deeply hydrating and highly compatible your skin’s own oils. It is also a powerful anti-oxidant and is brimming with high levels of chlorophyll, vitamin E and omegas 3 and 9 to improve the health and vitality of your skin. Avocado oil is also scientifically-proven to stimulate collagen production and increase the proportion of soluble collagen in the dermis of your skin.
Euxyl PE9010	Phenoxyethanol/ Ethylhexyl glycerin	Euxyl PE 9010 is gentle enough to use on sensitive mucus membranes while still effectively preserving the nutritional elements of the product. It is a natural alternative to parabens. It is broad-spectrum and organic. Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexyglycerin have natural abilities to kill bacteria, therefore used together as a preservative. They are non-irritant and non-allergenic.
Crillet 1	Polysorbate 20	Polysorbate 20 is a natural emulsifier. It is a liquid derived from lauric acid (a common constituent of coconut oil), oleic acid (from olive oil) and sorbitol (from fruit and berry extracts). It helps to blend oil and water together, as well as helping to lubricate and soothe the skin.
Abil Quat 3272	Quaternium 80	Abil Quat 3272: is highly substantive to skin and hair proteins because of their cationic charge. It assists greatly in the improvement the feel of the skin. It provides a re-fatting effect that imparts a smooth and supple feel to cleansed skin. AQ is a water soluble silicone.
Jojoba Oil	Simmondsia Chinensis	Jojoba is a shrub originating from California and Mexico. It is grown for the liquid wax (jojoba oil) in its seeds. This oil is a long straight-chain wax ester, very similar to natural skin sebum. It contains natural tocopherols (antioxidants found in vitamin E that disarm free radicals) to minimize oxidation and lipid peroxidation.
Proteol APL	Sodium Apple Amino Acid	Proteol APL: is an anionic, natural surfactant inspired by the plant kingdom. Obtained from essential amino acids of apple juice. An extremely gentle foaming surfactant that envelops the skin with a fruity apple caress!
Sorbitol	Sorbitol	Sorbitol is a humectant, hence it has a porous proliposomal structure, and is found in berries, grapes, plums and pears, seaweed and algae. It is produced by adding hydrogen to glucose, to retain moisture and smooth the skin.
Palmac 630	Stearic Acid	Stearic Acid (also known as palmitic acid) is an organic nutrient that is used as an emollient, to soothe and soften the skin. It is a major component of the oil from palm trees (palm oil and palm kernel oil). It is an antioxidant and Vitamin A compound. It works harmoniously with other ingredients to ensure that the skin is nourished from deep within.
Crodamazon Cupuacu	Theobroma Grandiflorum	The Cupuacu tree, originating from the northern region of Brazil, is used for its tree seed extract, which has a high capacity of water absorption. It contains phytosterols (beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol and campesterol) that act at cellular level by regulating the activity of lipids on the surface layer of skin. The result is increased smoothness and softness to dry skin, and long-lasting moisturization.
Grape Seed Oil	Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil	Grape seed oil is pressed from the seeds of various varieties of Vitis vinifera grapes. It is astringent, to help tighten and tone the skin, and useful for acne and other skin complaints. It is rich in linoleic acid and natural vitamin E, an essential fatty acid important for the skin and the cell membranes. It also has regenerative and restructuring virtues and has great skin moisturizing properties.
Xanthan Gum	Xanthan Gum	This ingredient is a long chain polysaccharide, composed of glucose and glucose derivatives, and  mannose (from the legume Manna). The resulting Xanthan gum helps to improve texture, giving a pleasant skin feel to a product, while helping to suspend the active ingredients. It is compatible and stable in most solution types and is resistant to enzymatic degradation.